Monthly Archives: January 2008

Da Jelly Bean

Every year tends to have one or two high points for me. Whether that’s a certain climb I did, or a trip I took there is normally something that sticks in my mind as just plain cool. Last year was no exception. I saw possibly the coolest thing I’ve ever seen. Something I had no clue even existed. Something so neat and incredible that I’m sure I will be talking about it for years. Drumroll please………….

Yes, it was a giant Jelly Bean. A giant jelly bean shaped mirror. I know what you’re thinking. It’s a jelly bean Steve, what’s so cool about that?? I can’t really explain it, it’s really just plain cool.

So here’s the back story on my little jelly bean foray. A friend and I were on our way out to Park City to “shred the gnar” as some might say. We had to drive down to Chicago at 3 AM to catch our flight out of Midway. When we arrived at the airport though we found that we’d been bumped off of our flight. After a bit of wrangling we got a later flight going out around 3 in the afternoon.

So there we are in Midway Airport, Therese running on about 3 hours of sleep and me running on a solid hour. What do we do? We decide to go to Michigan Avenue for the rest of the morning. Once we get there Therese starts telling me about this “giant jelly bean”. I scoff a little bit and make fun of her for wanting to go see a jelly bean and then we start shuffling down the street in a search of a “huge jelly bean”.

Lo and behold, the second we arrived I’m acting all stupid from amazement. This thing is downright incredible!! I was almost dumbfounded that I hadn’t heard of it before! We probably spent the better part of an hour just walking around and taking pictures. I couldn’t keep my eyes off of it! I was completely blown away.

Like I said earlier, I really can’t explain it that well but it was pretty darn cool. If you get the chance make sure you check it out.

Here are a couple more pictures from our little outing.

Urban Rivers


The River Alliance of Wisconsin has devoted this quarter’s newsletter to pondering “Why Urban Rivers Matter.” The River Alliance’s strong history of protecting rivers in rural and remote areas is complemented by this urban counterpoint. As their contributers note, we have far more opportunities to meaningfully interact with rivers in downtown Milwaukee, Racine, and Wausau than we do with the “wild and scenic” rivers elsewhere. Of course urban rivers often have far more baggage – including more obvious histories of human use and modification, industrialization, and social stigma from decades of neglect – yet they can be ecologically significant and have important potential for Conscious Outdoor Recreation. Cleaning up both the urban river and its image is a worthy ambition of the River Alliance – taking the lead in celebrating Urban Wilderness. Learn more at www.wisconsinrivers.org

Heroes

If you have personal heroes, we work in a pretty good industry.  Suppose you were a golfer – what’s the likelihood of you ever getting to sit down for dinner with Tiger Woods, much less work with him?  How many musicians will get to jam with Eric Clapton or do a duet with Norah Jones?  Like basketball?  Just try hanging out with Michael Jordan.

This came to me as I was at a dinner meeting.  I looked around the room and realized that I was sitting next to Tim McCartney-Snape.  This wasn’t new news to me, as I remembered where I had seated myself.  (I mean, there was some wine there and everything, but nobody gets carried away the first night before the OR show…)  I also know – of course – that Tim is a founder of Sea To Summit.  We work for them, after all.  But – crikey! – this was THE Tim McCartney-Snape. In my early climbing career, he was one of my #1 heroes, and now I work with him.
Unbelievable.
It wasn’t like the room was empty without Tim in it.  There were others there as well, including people I’ve long worked with who are heroes in their own right.  Shelley Presson-Dunbar ruled the sport-climbing scene for many, many years, and has had a long career as a trad climber, also.  Rob Owens, Jean-Pierre “Peewee” Ouellet, and Team Pemba’s very own Mr. Scott Backes were also in the house.  Need to climb anything, anywhere in the world?  These five together would be an impressive start to your team.  The rest of us in the room aren’t slackers, but these folks are all in a rarified league of their own.
Over the years, I’ve been fortunate to work beside many other world-class athletes, many of whom I have held in high esteem or awe for most of my life.  I almost fell out of my chair when Sally Edwards called me, once. I followed her whole triathlon career, starting in junior high.  I was fortunate, and was able to work for her company for several years.  Many of my other heroes I’ve not only met but worked with as well, including Jack Tackle, Kurt Smith, Henry Barber, Dale Bard, and Paul Piana.  Once, I was even able to take Royal Robbins out to Devils Lake for a day of top-roping.  He checked my set-ups, and everything.
Not to mention, think of who you bump into in the aisles:  Lynn Hill, Chris Sharma, Fred Beckey, Jeff Lowe, Mark Twight, and – well – you get the idea.
In no other industry do rank-and-file enthusiasts get to hang out with the big guns.  I guess you could call it a perk. 

Turmoil in Kenya: Tribal Conflict?

a disclaimer: PEMBAspeaks on a lot of different topics. Sometimes we’re ‘experts’, sometimes we’re little better than hacks.  I wanted to share my understanding of the current political crisis in Kenya – it has been in the news (NPR, anyway) and I am not always comfortable with how the conflict is being framed.  I’m not a political scientist, but I’ve spent almost a year in Kenya, and in a previous life I was something of an East African studies scholar.  I think this issue requires more attention, and a better explanation.  Here’s my attempt:

Today, Mwai Kibaki, the incumbent president and controversial victor in last month’s elections, finally met with the opposition leader and alleged runner-up, Raila Odinga, in talks mediated by former UN Secretary-General Kofi Annan. The dispute stems from allegations of rampant voter fraud during the December 27th presidential contest. The lead up to the elections was relatively peaceful, and voter turn-out was upwards of 70%. As the counts came in, we saw key regions curiously swing towards the incumbent Kibaki, turnout in regions favoring Kibaki topping 115%, and even the use of armed police to commandeer ballot counting as the vote came down to the wire. An immediate, private swearing-in of Kibaki after his government announced victory attempted to defuse calls of corruption and fraud. International observers raised serious concerns about the legitimacy of the contest, especially as parliamentary elections resulted in huge gains for Odinga’s opposition party. 

Election fraud and widespread government corruption is not a rarity in sub-Saharan Africa. And despite Kenya’s relative political and economic stability since independence in the early 60s, Kenya is considered to have among the most corrupt governments in the world. The truly shocking aspect of this election contest is not so much the illegitimacy at the polls, but the violence that has erupted across the country as a result. Amid charges of ethnic cleansing, at least 650 people have been killed – included several dozen burned alive while seeking refuge in a church – and over a quarter of a million displaced by the violence. To many of us hearing the news reports, many of these attacks are disturbingly reminiscent of Rwanda’s 1994 genocide.
But isn’t Kenya supposed to be above this, you ask? If Kenya can descend into tribal clashes, what does that foretell for stability in the rest of Africa? We hear these questions posed in daily news updates. But we need to ask a more important question first: what do we mean by “tribe”? And: why do we call it ethnic conflict in the Balkans, but it tribalism in Africa? One may argue these are semantics and essentially mean the same thing, but I argue this is fundamental in framing our understanding of African politics. Put simply (and lacking all the requisite complexity), tribe is a colonial artifact, as are many of the political realities in contemporary Africa. Certainly there are ethnic groups – Kikuyu (Kibaki’s ‘tribe’), Luo (Odinga’s ‘tribe’), Kalenjin, Samburu, Meru, etc. – and certainly there has been historic conflict between ethnic groups. But the British colonial strategy deliberately played ethic groups off of each other – divide and rule. “Tribal” identity cards were required at times, and the Kikuyu in particular benefited from favorable economic, political, and education benefits (until the fear of a Kikuyu ascendency became manifest). Geographic political divisions are colonial constructs too, and postcolonial national identities can be difficult to achieve.  
So where does this leave us? Well, we need to conceptualize this conflict as an ethnic division, akin to Bosnians, Serbs, et al., and understand that the Luo in particular have had several major political disappointments at the hands of Kikuyu politicians: Raila Odinga’s father was imprisoned by Jomo Kenyatta (the nation’s first president) after the once-political-allies had a very public falling out, Tom Mboya (a prominent political force in pre- and postcolonial Kenya) was assassinated raising questions about the role of Kenyatta and the Kikuyu political elite, and now Raila Odinga and his opposition party appears to have been disenfranchised at the hands of Kibaki’s government. In summary, Kikuyu (thanks in part to a colonial legacy) make up the majority of the political elite in Kenya, and like many in this position around the world, benefit illegally from their positions of power and are loath to step down. Does this justify the violence? Absolutely not. We should condemn it as we condemn ethnic conflict in Europe, and sectarian violence in Iraq. But by casting African conflicts as “tribal,” we essentialize the conflict, and make it an almost inevitable aspect of being African. Such semantics matter; the global community needs to recognize African governments as the-same-as Western governments, and hold them to the same standards rather than accepting their failures as something tribal.
But what does the average Kenyan want? They yearn for an end to corruption, transparency, and good-governance. Kibaki won his first term on an anti-corruption platform, but these dreams were largely unrealized. Many disenfranchised voters have taken to the streets to lodge their complain with the government and to demand democratic rule – truly admirable. Tragically, some of these protests have evolved into violence against neighbors. The majority of the population lives in poverty, which history tells us can lead to desperation and contribute to violence. Whatever role, if any, Kibaki and Odinga are playing in fueling this violence – they need to calm their supporters, though this does not mean Odinga needs to revoke his demand for a fair election (Washington has called for a power-sharing deal between the two). If the election was rigged, the Kenyan people deserve better. They have demanded a real democracy, and they should have one, but achieved by diplomacy, civil disobedience, and non-violence. Hopefully today’s meeting marks the first step towards ending the violence and holding legitimate elections.

Mecca

When I was nineteen, three of us from college piled into my two-seat Toyota SR-5 pick-up and drove across the country to visit Neptune Mountaineering. Oh yeah, we were going climbing too, but the purpose of the road-trip was really to go and visit Neptune’s. We called it “Mecca.” We took turns riding on the mattress in back when it wasn’t raining. When it was raining, we all squeezed into the cab, and – hopefully – the driver didn’t need to shift too much. During one of my turns on the mattress in the bed of the truck, I sat bolt up-right screaming after being woke from a deep sleep by the lights of a fast-approaching Peterbilt. I almost jumped out of the truck in my panic.

When we got to Neptune’s after driving all night, we were too broke to buy anything. But, it was raining, so we hung out all day talking to Paul Piana and looking at the museum-like displays and pictures. We eventually went out climbing while we were in Boulder. Before we left town, we went back to Neptune’s and bought t-shirts because we figured out that we had just enough money to do that and still make it back to school.

Most of us in this industry had a shop like this when we were starting out, a place where our passions for outdoor pursuits were fueled almost to religious fervor. As a kid, I used to ride my bike several miles just to get to Desert Mountain Sports in Phoenix, when it was on 16th Street. This wasn’t exactly Mecca, but it was a pilgrimage. For awhile, I thought the wizened old man who ran the place was Royal Robbins. With some imagination, the picture of Robbins on the back of Advanced Rockcraft sort of looked like this man, who by then for me had become some kind of high priest of my new religion.
There are lots of these stores across the country, each a Mecca to climbers, skiers, paddlers, and the like. I’ve mentioned two that were important to me, and there were several others, also. If you’re reading this, chances are you had your own “Mecca” outdoor store.

Which store was this, and what made it a “Mecca” for you?

2008 Goals

I decided to write down a list of my 2008 climbing goals and put them in our blog. I’ve seen it done a few places and people seem to think it helps them reach their goals a bit easier. Figure I’ll give it a test run too and see if it helps keep me in check. Hopefully as I tick them off I’ll blog about them here.


Boulders:
  1. Sex and Chocolate – V7 – Devil’s Lake – Slopers on Quarzite. Really confusing.
  2. Sex and Chocolate Direct – V? – Devil’s Lake – Undone Highball Project. Proud.
  3. Bulbous Left Center – V8 – Devil’s Lake.
  4. Bulbous Right – V? – Devil’s Lake – Possible project shooting out the right side of the roof.
  5. Beautiful Soup – V8 – Devil’s Lake.
  6. Alpine Club – Sandbag V9 – Devil’s Lake – I just keep telling myself it’s just two moves….
  7. The Keymaker – V10/11??? – Devil’s Lake – Still awaiting a second ascent.
  8. Smooth Operator/Bud White – V4/6 – Devil’s Lake – Great highball line over a horrible landing.
  9. Sandstone Violence – V8? – Governor Dodge – Gotta get my revenge. Almost broke my arm on it last year. Still needs a second ascent, I think.
  10. The Godfather – V5? – Governor Dodge – Super super classic.
  11. Body Karate – V9 – Jackson Falls – Squeeze!!!
  12. Jungle Book – V8 – Holies – So classic looking.
  13. Instinct/Sit – V7/10 – Little Rock City – Some climbs just make you sweat when you see them. So pretty.
Routes:
  1. Sometimes Crack – 10 – Devil’s Lake – Just need to do this one.
  2. Bagatelle – 12c – Devil’s Lake – Not sure if I’ve been on a more sustained route with such poor feet.
  3. Cheap Thrills – 12b – Devil’s Lake – Just need one more day.
  4. Rubberman – 13a – Devil’s Lake
  5. Ice – 13a – Devil’s Lake – Gotta get my crimp going for this one. So thin!!!
  6. Ice into Acid Direct Project – Devil’s Lake – There might be some way to link this thing up. Hard! 13a into 12b/c into 12a.
  7. Secret Agent Man – 13a – Governor Dodge – I’ve got the moves dialed, just need to link it up.
  8. Whiskey-A-Go-Go – 13a – Necedah – Apparently the best sport climb in the Midwest.
I’m sure there are more but that seems like a mighty good list for the year. We’ll see if I can do even some of them.

Top Of The World

Sir Edmund Hillary has died.  Likely, this isn’t the first place that you’ve heard this.  It’s made the world news and tops most news pages tonight.  He was considered by many worldwide to be a hero for being one of the two people – and the first white male – to climb Mount Everest.  Always humble, he didn’t consider himself to be a hero.  Rather, he said that he took a walk with his friend Tenzing Norgay, and wound up on top of the world.  It wasn’t until after Tenzing’s death that Hillary revealed which one of them had actually stepped first onto the summit of Everest.  We should remember that they did it together.

All climbers today should pause in memory of Edmund Hillary, although not because of what he accomplished on Everest.  More than this one thing, Hillary earned worldwide respect for what he did after reaching the summit of Everest.  He went on to found dozens of schools and a few hospitals in the Himalayan region, and – in particular – in Nepal.  He gave back to the mountain region that changed his life, and in the process he changed too many lives to count.

Giving back is an important thing to do.  We should all be grateful for our station in life.  Most of us who have access to this blog were born in one of the most powerful nations ever created, at a time when technology makes life easier than ever before. In many ways, being born in the United States is the equivalent of winning the lottery.  I’m not a great patriot, but from a practical perspective it’s difficult to think of swapping being born here with being born in – say – Darfur or Somalia.  We have it pretty good, and we should remember this as Hillary did by giving what we can to others.

Giving back has unexpected consequences.  For instance, personally I can share that if Hillary hadn’t climbed Everest I may not be writing this now.  One of the main people who brought me into climbing – one of my mentors, Courtney Skinner – was trained by Hillary in both climbing and expeditionary travel while they were stationed together in Antarctica in the ‘Sixties.  In turn, Courtney taught me – and Todd Skinner, as well as dozens of other prominent climbers – how to manage ourselves in big-mountain environments.  Hillary chose to give back to others by teaching what he knew, and – if he hadn’t – we all probably wouldn’t be here, now.

I’m saddened for this loss, and I’m happy that Hillary lived to a ripe old age.  I was fortunate:  I once met Hillary and even went to dinner with him.  He came to see a production of “K2″ that I helped to produce in college.  I have fond memories of that evening, as well as photos and – yes – even an autograph on something personal.  More than this, Hillary taught me that we all have our own personal Everests.  Only some people actually climb the mountain, but millions of others go for their own dreams and achieve them.  As Hillary showed, the journey doesn’t stop there:  Once dreams are achieved, it’s a duty to help others to achieve theirs.

Think about this – and Sir Edmund – the next time that you decide to go whole-hog for something that at first brush seems impossible.  Then, when you achieve it – or even if you fail – remember to give back.  This is what puts you on top of the world, ultimately.

Yoootaww

I just got back from a snowriding trip to glorious Utah and I’m officially sad. It’s raining outside here in Madison and our snow is melting away quickly. We had good snow, luckily, and even better weather on our trip. Some might go as far as saying we “shredded the gnar”. It had been a while since my trip to Brighton a few years back and was my first time in Park City. Pretty cool town with some massive resorts.

The backcountry access, much like Brighton, looked incredible. Wish I had more time. I often get a bit more of an inclination to move back to a mountain town after coming back home from one. It never seems to fail. In all honesty, I’ll probably end up out that way again and inevitably I’ll miss home while I’m out there. I mostly miss the cheese.

I was reminded by a good friend the other week that “the grass is always greener”. I like that saying.

I’ll be sure to post up some pictures soon. I’ll even put in a couple of my trip highlight, the 40 foot tall jelly bean in Chicago. I was pretty amazed.