I went climbing this past Saturday at Governor Dodge with my girlfriend, Katie. It was fun to get on real rock again and try out some new shoes. Unfortunately it was about 80 degrees and humid so I spent most of the afternoon dripping with sweat. I worked out the first couple of moves on Sandstone Violence and the beta came back to me pretty well. I’m looking forward to giving it some more concentrated effort in the next few weeks.

Here are a couple of pics from the day. No real sends but just a fun time lying around on pads. Maybe a little too much time spent dressing Frank up in different shoes….

I had forgotten just how awkward this landing was. I must have fallen 2 or 3 times when the pads slid out from under me. Frank was nice enough to cheer me on in the background.

Katie looking strong on the hideously painful crimps of Split Personality. No send on Saturday but it’ll come soon I’m sure.

Here’s Frank in the Muira VCS. I’m still not totally sure where his head is. It’s in either California or Nevada, I know that much. Katie thinks he needs a tail. Any thoughts from our loyal fans?

Frank in the Scarpa Boosters. Katie thinks he needed a better spot. Although, he did hit the “X”….

but then I got it…

So, earlier in the year I posted a list of climbs I wanted to do before the end of the year. After a summer of relaxing and eating lots of cookies instead of climbing rocks, I’ve adjusted the list a touch. So here it is. My fall tick list. Assuming I can get back into shape this should be somewhat doable. I’ve taken out all of the routes for now as my psych seems to be landing on the short rocks. So here it is, my Fall 08 wish list….

Alpine Club – V9 – Devils lake – Possibly the two hardest moves at Devils Lake….in succession.

Beautiful Soup – V8 – Devils lake – Hard, but doable. More of a warm up for the next one…

The Keymaker – V10/11?? – Devils lake – Un-repeated and proud. Very very high on the priority list.

Sex and Chocolate – V7 – Devils lake – Classic slopers on Quartzite. Need to wait for the cool temps though. Another warm up for something better to come…

Sex and Chocolate Direct – Project – Devils Lake – A direct finish to the previous problem. There are holds on the upper wall but I’ve spent a good part of the last year and a half trying to ignore just how thin they are.

Sandstone Violence – V8 – Governor Dodge – I’ve got a very definite personal vendetta against this problem. I worked out the beta. Got within two inches of pulling the FA. Then got hit by a 7 pound block of sandstone and lost all interest in it. My prediction, it’ll be sent by the end of October.

Illusions of Paradise – V7 – Governor Dodge – Looks like a pretty cool problem. I haven’t seen it yet but people have been saying good things. We’ll see.

So there it is. Considering I’m in about V4 shape right now, I had better get on it and start ticking these things off. I’ll be sure to keep all of our loyal fans up to date on my flailing. Preferably with lots of pictures.

(originally posted on theCORgroup: Conscious Outdoor Recreation)

“A federal judge ruled Monday that the Bush administration’s plan to allow more than 500 snowmobiles a day into Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks was not in keeping with the National Park Service’s responsibility to protect the parks.”

The New York Times goes on to report that the judge contended “park planners had failed to reconcile their mission to protect the parks’ environment with the increase in air pollution, the disturbance to wildlife and the impact on visitors that the snowmobiles would bring.”

Environmentalist applauded this ruling, but I worry that the question of access is more nuanced, and we need to have a more serious discussion about what our parks and protected area mean to us ecologically, culturally, and recreationally, and what constitutes appropriate use.

Here is an example from a different perspective: American Whitewater is a paddler advocacy group that “restores rivers dewatered by hydropower dams, eliminates water degradation, improves public land management and protects public access to rivers for responsible recreational use.” They historically have been very successful in forging partnerships with other stakeholders to mutual benefit. However American Whitewater finds itself embroiled in a conflict over the Wild & Scenic Chattooga River. Many rivers with Wild & Scenic designation are open to paddlers; canoeists and kayakers are generally considered legitimate backcountry users, akin to hikers and fishers. In public comment on paddler access to the Upper Chattooga, creek boating was compared to mountain biking, adventure sports at odds with wilderness values, and ATV’s on hiking trails.

I agree that there are activities that are fundamentally incompatible with our wilderness values, and should be limited in parks and protected areas. The trouble with these debates is that our wilderness values remain undefined. ‘Wilderness values’ are interpreted by user groups to further political agendas and to exclude other users. Proponents of ’silent sports’ are quick to fight the expansion of motorized transportation in protected areas, but without a comprehensive examination of our wilderness values – as enunciated by government agencies and the user groups – we risk more political maneuvering and inconsistent policy decisions.

The National Park Service has the mission to preserve “unimpaired the natural and cultural resources and values of the national park system for the enjoyment, education, and inspiration of this and future generations.” Balancing access and preservation is no easy task, but without examining what our ‘wilderness values’ really mean to us, it seems impossible.