Monthly Archives: September 2008

The climbing of the short rocks.

I went climbing this past Saturday at Governor Dodge with my girlfriend, Katie. It was fun to get on real rock again and try out some new shoes. Unfortunately it was about 80 degrees and humid so I spent most of the afternoon dripping with sweat. I worked out the first couple of moves on Sandstone Violence and the beta came back to me pretty well. I’m looking forward to giving it some more concentrated effort in the next few weeks.

Here are a couple of pics from the day. No real sends but just a fun time lying around on pads. Maybe a little too much time spent dressing Frank up in different shoes….

I had forgotten just how awkward this landing was. I must have fallen 2 or 3 times when the pads slid out from under me. Frank was nice enough to cheer me on in the background.

Katie looking strong on the hideously painful crimps of Split Personality. No send on Saturday but it’ll come soon I’m sure.

Here’s Frank in the Muira VCS. I’m still not totally sure where his head is. It’s in either California or Nevada, I know that much. Katie thinks he needs a tail. Any thoughts from our loyal fans?

Frank in the Scarpa Boosters. Katie thinks he needed a better spot. Although, he did hit the “X”….

It took me a couple of seconds…

but then I got it…

Create your own caption.

A Slight Update…

So, earlier in the year I posted a list of climbs I wanted to do before the end of the year. After a summer of relaxing and eating lots of cookies instead of climbing rocks, I’ve adjusted the list a touch. So here it is. My fall tick list. Assuming I can get back into shape this should be somewhat doable. I’ve taken out all of the routes for now as my psych seems to be landing on the short rocks. So here it is, my Fall 08 wish list….

Alpine Club – V9 – Devils lake – Possibly the two hardest moves at Devils Lake….in succession.

Beautiful Soup – V8 – Devils lake – Hard, but doable. More of a warm up for the next one…

The Keymaker – V10/11?? – Devils lake – Un-repeated and proud. Very very high on the priority list.

Sex and Chocolate – V7 – Devils lake – Classic slopers on Quartzite. Need to wait for the cool temps though. Another warm up for something better to come…

Sex and Chocolate Direct – Project – Devils Lake – A direct finish to the previous problem. There are holds on the upper wall but I’ve spent a good part of the last year and a half trying to ignore just how thin they are.

Sandstone Violence – V8 – Governor Dodge – I’ve got a very definite personal vendetta against this problem. I worked out the beta. Got within two inches of pulling the FA. Then got hit by a 7 pound block of sandstone and lost all interest in it. My prediction, it’ll be sent by the end of October.

Illusions of Paradise – V7 – Governor Dodge – Looks like a pretty cool problem. I haven’t seen it yet but people have been saying good things. We’ll see.

So there it is. Considering I’m in about V4 shape right now, I had better get on it and start ticking these things off. I’ll be sure to keep all of our loyal fans up to date on my flailing. Preferably with lots of pictures.

People’s Place in Parks

(originally posted on theCORgroup: Conscious Outdoor Recreation)

“A federal judge ruled Monday that the Bush administration’s plan to allow more than 500 snowmobiles a day into Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks was not in keeping with the National Park Service’s responsibility to protect the parks.”

The New York Times goes on to report that the judge contended “park planners had failed to reconcile their mission to protect the parks’ environment with the increase in air pollution, the disturbance to wildlife and the impact on visitors that the snowmobiles would bring.”

Environmentalist applauded this ruling, but I worry that the question of access is more nuanced, and we need to have a more serious discussion about what our parks and protected area mean to us ecologically, culturally, and recreationally, and what constitutes appropriate use.

Here is an example from a different perspective: American Whitewater is a paddler advocacy group that “restores rivers dewatered by hydropower dams, eliminates water degradation, improves public land management and protects public access to rivers for responsible recreational use.” They historically have been very successful in forging partnerships with other stakeholders to mutual benefit. However American Whitewater finds itself embroiled in a conflict over the Wild & Scenic Chattooga River. Many rivers with Wild & Scenic designation are open to paddlers; canoeists and kayakers are generally considered legitimate backcountry users, akin to hikers and fishers. In public comment on paddler access to the Upper Chattooga, creek boating was compared to mountain biking, adventure sports at odds with wilderness values, and ATV’s on hiking trails.

I agree that there are activities that are fundamentally incompatible with our wilderness values, and should be limited in parks and protected areas. The trouble with these debates is that our wilderness values remain undefined. ‘Wilderness values’ are interpreted by user groups to further political agendas and to exclude other users. Proponents of ‘silent sports’ are quick to fight the expansion of motorized transportation in protected areas, but without a comprehensive examination of our wilderness values – as enunciated by government agencies and the user groups – we risk more political maneuvering and inconsistent policy decisions.

The National Park Service has the mission to preserve “unimpaired the natural and cultural resources and values of the national park system for the enjoyment, education, and inspiration of this and future generations.” Balancing access and preservation is no easy task, but without examining what our ‘wilderness values’ really mean to us, it seems impossible.

My Inner Pete Townshend Is Screaming

As you may know, I have a few dumb projects that occupy me in my spare time.  I’ve recently refurbished my vintage Benotto, and I’m building up a vintage cruiser from scratch.  I’m also working on a super-secret Pemba-related project that may not work out at all.  (Suffice it to say for now that it shares a theme with the other two projects.)  I call these things “dumb” because – in the end – they’ll probably not serve any practical purpose, at all.


Basically, I turned the Benotto from a perfectly ridable beater into a priceless work of art which really shouldn’t ever be ridden; now that I’m almost done making it, I often wonder if I actually need a cruiser; and as for that Pemba-project, we’ll just have to see.  In an effort to simplify something that’s pretty straight-forward already, I may just be making it much more complicated.

So it goes.  So it goes more often when a passion grabs hold of somebody, and I think I may be that somebody.

Yesterday, I rode around in the rain on my CX bike.  I never made it to the mud, though.  Instead, I went from bike shop to bike shop and back again here in downtown Madison.  On a wild hare, I was looking for some of the last vintage parts that I need for the cruiser project.  (Oh, and for another rebuild that I’m considering, too.  Forgot to mention that…)

There’s a bike shop just down the street from PEMBAbase.  Walking in there was like walking into a diamond mine.  Among their vintage parts was one sparkling gem that I’ve sought for some time.

“Hey, is that a 36-Hole original Phil BMX there?”  I asked, barely concealing my excitement.  This is a hard-to-find front hub from Phil Wood that goes for a pretty penny on eBay.  I’ve been out-bid twice while trying to get this hub.

“Yep, sure is,” said the kid behind the counter.  He handed it to me, just like that.  It was perfect, clean, with just enough patina to make it interesting.  I spun it around in the light, watching as it glittered in my hand.

“Say,” I said as I held the jewel,”You don’t happen to have a vintage Deore XT crank set around here, do you?  That would totally make my day.”

“I think we might – Let me check in back,” he said and walked off, leaving me with the Phil.

That’s when I first heard my inner Pete Townshend, screaming:  “Run!  Run for the door!  You’ve got it in your hand!  This is your chance!  Now RUN!”  

From the back of my brain, I heard the opening riffs and a line from a David Bowie song:  “The feeling comes out better from a stolen guitar, you’re not messing with the Spiders from Mars!”  

Before I could consider how far it was to the door, the kid came back and the moment was gone.  I’ve said it before:  I think I may be possessed.

Truths are revealed in moments like these.  I know what you’re thinking:  You’re thinking that maybe I found out that I’m a shoplifter at heart.  Nope, sorry.  There’s a difference between hearing the devil inside yourself, and listening to him.  Listening to this devil is what made Pete Townshend bolt for the door with “borrowed” guitars (that he would later smash on stage – ooops!)  As with most people, I’ve learned not to act on what the devil inside of me whispers, or – as the case may be – screams.  

What drives this devil, though, is passion.  Instead of listening to this devil, I’ve learned to listen to what he is talking about.  These whispers often reveal to me my own passions.

Passions can drive you, and not always in bad directions.  In life, and particularly in business, it’s important to harness your passions.  Life gets stale without passion, and so does business.

So, as a result of my recent passions I might end up with a couple of extra bikes (and they’ll be beauties, believe me…)  By investing some of this passion into Pemba Serves, even if I end up with something that doesn’t quite work I may just end up somewhere where we need to be.  Either way, there’s not a lot of harm in it.

Unless, of course, I get arrested.  Dang.

Wisconsin Ranked Second Most Bike Friendly State

Wisconsin continues to top the active lifestyle lists, this time a close second on the League of American Bicyclists first annual Bicycle Friendly States ranking:

Wisconsin’s second place ranking is a result of their high use of available federal funding for cycling related projects and programs, statewide counts of bicycle usage and model policies… With a thriving bicycle industry and growing advocacy movement Wisconsin looks to move to the top of the list.

We are fortunate to have such support for bicycling in the state. Madison tops the League of American Bicyclists’ Bike Friendly Communities list, and the mayor’s office is committed to improving our ranking. Statewide organizations such as the Bicycle Federation of Wisconsin do fantastic work, and more than our share of manufactures call southern Wisconsin home. Planet Bike deserves special recognition, donating 25% of their profits to bicycle advocacy.

With autumn weather arriving, now is arguably the best time of the year for cycling in southern Wisconsin. See you on the bike path.

so…sea kayaking doesn’t suck

Most of the paddling I’ve done has been whitewater canoeing and kayaking. I’ve certainly ventured out on the Madison lakes and the (mighty) Yahara River, but primarily to train for whitewater races. I’m not an adrenaline junkie, it’s just… well, maybe that has something to do with it. More to the point: I seek the pairing of ‘the outdoor experience’ with the technical and physical challenges of whitewater paddling. I find the aesthetic and spiritual qualities of ‘wilderness’ that many of us seek in our outdoor adventures are enhanced when coupled with overcoming physical and mental obstacles, and an element of risk. 

That said, my work with theCORgroup – Conscious Outdoor Recreation has challenged me to consider local options for outdoor recreation. In the upper Midwest, this includes sea kayaking. Without debating if a six-hour drive to Lake Superior is a ‘local recreation area,’ I have discovered that not only does sea kayaking not suck – I could actually see myself getting into this.


For Labor Day, my partner and I joined two friends for a long weekend of paddling along Painted Rocks National Lakeshore. It was a last minute decision to join the trip, but fortunately Pemba has a warehouse brimming with camping equipment, so borrowing the essentials missing from my personal gear warehouse wasn’t a problem. It was also a chance to finally test some of the new gear whose merits I’ve been extolling during the last month of trade shows (they all met our high expectations, phew.. see appendix). Canoelover, does this make it a tax-deductible expedition?

My partner was a novice sea kayaker, but a quick study. Which is good, as we were racing daylight, a headwind, and choppy water to meet the group who had arrived a day earlier. We made it with the sunset to spare. 


The sea cliffs were amazing. And the water crystal clear. Lake Superior is like the Caribbean plus conifers. Sunday we had more time to explore and poke around the arches and sea caves. The weather was perfect, and we practiced some rescues to cool down a bit.

As we broke camp and hit the water for the paddle back to the cars on Monday, I was getting some last photos of the group with the sea cliff backdrop. Lo and behold, they were joined by a cormorant, Phalacrocorax auritus. (Interestingly, nesting Double-crested Cormorants disappeared from Lake Superior in the 1970′s due to toxic contaminants, but the populations have since resurged to historic highs). This fellow was heading my way, and after a couple of close-ups, opted for a more auspicious pose. ‘He’ – I need either an Audubon guidebook or a gender-neutral pronoun – hung around for a good five minutes, exploring the hatch of the Impex Force, agreed it was a lovely boat, then moved on. After a minute to collect myself, I decided definitively that sea kayaking does not suck, and started the paddle back.

Maybe Impex Kayaks will buy this picture. Alas, no logo.


Gratuitous Gear Review:

Jetboil HELIOS – Not surprisingly, it really does get the water boiling faster than any other stove I’ve used, but – to my delight – it simmers better too. Making couscous was a snap. The design raised some skeptical eyebrows when I set it up for Saturday evening, but requests for prodeals were quick to follow. For the record, I used exactly a 100gram fuel canister for 2 hot breakfasts and 2 hot dinners for four, including simmering and boiling unfiltered lake water.

Sea to Summit DRYBAGS – Not a new product, but the whole dry bag range from STS is solid. I used the ultralight ULTRA-SIL Dry Sacks, the LIGHTWEIGHT Dry Sacks, the rugged BIG RIVER Dry Bags, and of course the eVENT Compression Dry Sacks. To reiterate the company line, the Ultra-Sil bags are best for backpacking and canoeing applications (where they live inside a backpack or portage pack) – I didn’t have any problems, but for a little more weight and extra durability I’ll stick with the rest of the range for whitewater and sea kayaking trips. 

Petzl MYO RXP – Petzl’s new programmable, regulated headlamp. Freakin’ bright (140 lumens). Getting the food bags up on the bear pole was simple with this floodlight. And you can program the different light levels, so I can set the first light level to the campfire-circle-friendly 8 lumens, and ramp it up from there. Looking forward to running and skiing with this lamp, but not on this adventure…

Mountain Hardwear VIPERINE 2 – This is Steve’s favorite tent in the line, and I was pleased with my decision to demo this one. Good usable space, a funky look, fantastic ventilation (especially on this 2009 model), and quick to set-up. I’m starting to get a hard time for bringing a different tent on every trip, but thus are the hazards of being a gear rep.

She’s a little bit bigger now….

So, the bunny we got this past April is close to being full grown now. We checked and she’s a she. Her name is Dash, thanks to “The Incredibles”. Thought I’d take some pictures and give all of our loyal readers an update.

She’s bigger, but not really any smarter….

Katie keeps on insisting that the misbehaving is all my fault. I normally deny it but I’ll take credit here. I put an animal cracker up on the table, next to the paper. She got close at least.